ATOCI: Boots and Shoes 6 [BAS6]

SECTION XI
BESPOKE BOOTMAKING
PREFACE. 3
I. REASONS FOR BESPOKE. 5
II. VARIOUS METHODS EMPLOYED IN MAKING BESPOKE FOOTWEAR. 7
III. TYPES OF BESPOKE BUSINESSES. 14
IV. BUSINESS PREMISES. 17
V. INTERVIEWING CUSTOMERS. 25
VI. SELECTION AND ADAPTATION OF LAST. 37
VII. CUTTING PATTERN FOR THE UPPERS. 43
VIII. SELECTION OF UPPERMATERSALS. 48
IX. CLOSING OF UPPERS. 53
X. SELECTION AND CUTTING OF BOTTOM STUFF. 56
XII. MAKING OR BOTTOMING. 64
XIII. FINISHING OFF. 82
XIV. SURGICAL WORK. 84
XV. BOOK-KEEPING AND COSTING. 112
XVI. TAKING IMPRESSIONS AND CASTS. 116
XVII. TRADE BOARD RATES AND CONDITIONS. 118

SECTION XII
HANDSEWN BOOTMAKING
PREFACE. 127
I. THE PREPARATION OF BOTTOM STUFF. 129
II. ADHESIVES. 140
III. INNERSOLE PREPARATION. 142
IV. LASTING. 159
V. WELT SEAM CONSTRUCTION. 178
VI. BOTTOM-FILLING. 193
VII. FITTING THE SOLES, ROUNDING AND CHANNELLING. 197
VIII. STITCHING. 205
IX. HEEL BUILDING. 211
X. FINISHING. 219
INDEX. 231

INDEX
SECTION XI
BESPOKE BOOTMAKING
"Turns," 7
Adapting boot last for shoe, 33
ADAPTION of last, 37 et seq
Allowances, 44 45
Altering lasts, 40
Anatomy, 26
Appliances, leg, 108
Apprentices, 119
Attaching corks, 95
Awl, peg, 11
BACK lasting, 45
Backbone, 49
Bars, meta, 106
Beater, welt, 75
Bellies, 57
Bench for cutting, 51
Bends, 57
Bespoke , general trade, 14
Bespoke , high class, 14
Bespoke , making footwear, 5, 13
Bespoke , methods employed, 7
Bespoke , occasional, 15
Bespoke , reasons for, 5 6 ,
Bespoke business, types of, 14, 16
Bespoke manufacturers, 15, 16
Bespoke pattern storage, 21
Bespoke retailers, 15
Beva, 49
Blake, 7
Blocking innersoles, 63
Book-keeping, 112 et seq.
Boot, extension, 93
Boot, last, 33
Bottom-filling, 60, 75
Bottoming, 64
Bottoms, 34
Box calf, 43
Box rands, 100
Breaker for lent of uppers, 45
Breaker on lasts, 42
Breaker, seat, 79
Bristles, 72
Bunion piece, 41
Bunsen burner, 19
Business premises, 17-24
Butts, 49, 57
CALF, box, 43
CALF, patent, 49
CALF, russet, 50
CALF, Wax, 43
CALF, willow, 43
Cap, length of, 46
Cash, register for, 112
Cemented work, 11 12
Cemented, 7
Channel closing, 73
Channelling, 75, 76
Cheeks, 57
Cleaning linings, 32
Clicker, 51
Clicker, bench, 51
Closers, trade, 55
Closing, 53
Closing, channel, 73
Closing, machine, 54
Closing, uppers, 53 et seq.
Club foot, 34 et seq., 39
Combination, 7, 9, 10
Corks for special cases, 39
Corks, 92
Corks, attaching, 95
Corks, compensation, 35
Corks, cradle, 90
Corks, examination of, 93
Corks, fitting inside, 94
Corks, inside extension, 96
Corks, joining, 93 Fonnes, 44
Corks, loose, 95
Corks, outside, 35, 99
Corks, shaping, 94
Costing labour, 113
Costing, 112 et seq.
Cradle, cork, 90
Curve of heel, 36, 88
Customer, conversation with, 26
Customer, interviewing, 25, 36
Customer, new, 25
Customer, previous, 25
Cutting-material skins, 51
Cutting-material uppers, 51
Cutting-material, 61
Cutting-material, patterns for specials, 44
Cutting-material, patterns, uppers, 43, et seq.
Day book 112
Deformed feet, 90
Division of butt, 60
Drill lining, 5
Elastic glue, 93
Elongated heels, ]06
Enamelled leather, 49
Equino-varus, 34, 92
Examination of cork, 93
Exemptions, 120
Extension boot, 93
Extras, 121 ,
FACES, 57
Feathering, 69
Feet, deformed, 90
Femur, 34
Fibula, 34
Filing cabinets, 23
Filling the bottom, 75
Finishing off, 32, 33
Finishing, 79
Fitments, 107, 109
Fitting, 33, 53
Fixed corks, 95
Fixing soles, 75
Flax, 71
Fleshing, 64
Footwear, styles of, 33
Fracture, Pott's, 34
Front length, 45
Grain hide, 49
Ground work, 121
Hafts, peg-awl, 11
Hammer, 66
Hammering, 76
Hand-sewn pumps, 7, 8, 9
Hand-sewn, welted, 7, S
Heel, 23, 59
Heel, curve, 36
Heel, elongated, 106
Heel, height of, 35
Heel, pin, 33
Heel, types, of, 36
Heeling, 73
Height of heel, 35
Hemp, 71
Hides, 48
Hides, grain, 49
High stiffenings, 103
Holing, 69
INDEX card, 20, 22
Index ledger, 112
Indexed books, 31
Individual lasts, 21
Innersole, 5S
Innersole, blocking, 63
Innersole, feathering, 69
Innersole, holing 69
Inside corks, 35
Inside extension corks, 96
Inside extension fitting, 94
Instep, 23
Instep, piece, 33
Interviewing customers, 24, 36
Joining cork, 93
Joint, 23
Labour, costing of, 113
Lasting, 70
Lasts, , selection, 19, 37 et seq.
Lasts, allowances in measurement, 42
Lasts, altering, 40
Lasts, boot, 33
Lasts, court, 33
Lasts, for enlarged joint, 30
Lasts, for stiff toe, 40
Lasts, length over foot, 41
Lasts, numbering, 21
Lasts, shoe, 33
Lasts, stock, 37
Lasts, storage, 19 21
Lasts, types of, 33
Leamers, 119, 120
Leather, , willow, 43
Leather, Beva, 49
Leather, box, 43
Leather, buying, 56
Leather, enamelled, 49
Leather, grain hide, 49
Leather, patent, 49
Leather, reptile, 49
Leather, wax calf, 43
Leather, Zug 49
Ledger, index, 112
Leg appliances, 108
Length of cap, 46
Length of front, 45
Length of last over foot, 41
Length of vamp, 46
Lifts, 59
Lifts, split, 66
Lighting, shop, 17
Lining, 32, 33
Lining, cleaning, 32
Lining, drill, 52
Lining, skins, 50
Long stiffenings, 104
Machine sewn, 7, 10
Machining, 53
Making, 64
Making, split lifts, 66
Making, threads, 71
Material, cutting, 61
Material, for uppers, 43 et seq.
Material, Used for casts, 116 et seq.
materials, 113
Measurements, positions to take, 27, 29
Measurements, taking, 27
Meta bars, 106
Mixed tannages, 56
NARROW toe, 35
OAK bark tanned leathers, 56
Order card, 20
Outer soles, 57
Outline of foot, 29
Outline of foot, perpendicular, 30, 31
Outside corks, 35, 99
Overtime, 121
PATENT, 44
Pattern storage, 21, 23
Patterns for uppers, 24
Peg knife, 30
Peg rasp, 30
Peg-awl hafts, 11
Pegged, 7-11
Piece rates, 121
Pitch and spring, 34
Pitch, 86
Potts fracture, 84
Preface, 3
Premises, business, 17-24
Preparing rands, 100
Preparing soles, 75
Profit, 115
Puffs, 58
Puffs, 58
Rands, box, 100
Rands, preparing, 100
Rands, sewing, 101
Rands, shaping, 100
Rands, turned, 102
Rates, trade board, 118 et seq.
Reasons for bespoke, 5, 6
Receipt book, 112
Register, cash, 112
Reptiles, 49
Riveted, 7-11
Rollers, 61
Russet calf, 50
SEAT breaker, 79
Selection of bottom stock, 57
Selection of upper material, 43 et
Sewing rands, 101
Sewing welt, 73
Shank, 59, 63
Shaping rands, 100
Shop equipment, 17
Shop lighting, 17
Shop, 17-13
Shopping, 31
Shove, 33
Side-lining, 54
Sides, 43
Size stick, 27, 23
Sizes of skins, 45
Skins, 43
Skins, lining, 50
Skins, reptile, 49
Skins, sizes of, 43
Skiving, 53
Slant of toes, 34
Socking, 32
Sole, stitching, 77
Soles, outer, 75
Soles, preparing, 75
Solutioned, 7, 11, 12
Special cases, 34
Split lifts, making, 66
Spring and pitch, 39
Spring, 36, SS
Stiffenings, 53
Stiffinings, high, 103
Stiffinings, long, 104 tea;
Stitching, sole, 77
Stitchmen, 19
Stock lasts, 37
stock, selection, 57 et seq.
Stocking, 33
Storage of lasts, 19
Straps, T, 107
Stuck-up, 7
Styles of footwear, 33
Suitable types of footwear, 31, 32
Surgical Boot uppers, 103
Surgical work, 34 et seg.
TAKING casts, 116, et seg.
Taking impressions, 116 et seq.
Taking measurements, 27
Tannages, mixed, 56
Thread making, 71
Threads, 71
Tibia, 34
Toe casing, 53
Toe casing, narrow, 35
Toe casing, pin, 33
Toe casing, width of, 35
Top-pieces, 57
Tracer, 30
Trade board, 113 et seg.
Trade closers, 55
Trying-on, 62
Trying-on, in the welt, 62
T-straps, 107
Turned rands, 162
Types of bespoke businesses, 14-16
Types of footwear, suitable, 31-32
Types of heels, 36
Types of lasts, 33
Upper materials, selection of 48, et seq
Uppers, closing, 53 et seq
Uppers, cutting, 51
Uppers, of surgical boots, 103
VALGUS T-strap, 107
Valonia, 56
Vamp length, 45, 46
Veldtschoen, 7, 12, 13
Waist-piece, 54, 62
Wax, 48, 72, 93
Wax, calf, 49
Wedges, 105
Welt beater, 75
Welt mill, 67
Welt sewing, 73
Welts, 53, 67
Width of toe, 35
Willow, 43
Work, surgical, 34 et seq.
Worker under 21, 118
Workroom, equipment, IS
Workroom, IS, 19
workshop, 19
ZUG, 49

SECTION XII
HAND SEWN BOOTMAKING
Acetic acid, 140
Adhesives, 140 et seq.
Alternative to piercing, 157
Amount of hoist, 165
Angle of welt, 180
Awl, welting, 135
BETWEEN substance, 155
Bevelling the welt, 179
Bismark brown, 224
Blocking, 144
Borax, 130
Bottom filling, 193 et seq.
Bottom filling, stuff, set of, 129
Bottom stuff preparation, 129 et seq
Bradded top piece, 217
Bristles, 184
Brown heel ball, 228
Building heels, 211 et seq
Burnt sienna, 225
Casting off, 182
Channeling, 197 et seg.
Channeling, Object of, 202
Construction, welt seam 178, et seq.
DEPTH of feather, 153
Direction of pulls, 162
Drafting of operation, 163
Drying innersoles, 147
Fake, 228
Feather depth, 153
Feather width, 152
Feathering insoles, 151
Felt, 193
Filling, bottom, 193 et seq.
Finishing, 219 et seq.
Fitting the soles, 197 et seq.
Fitting the welt, 179
Fixing on sole, 198
Fudge marks, 206, 226
GELATINE, 140
Glue paste, 140
Hammering leather, 198
Heel ball, brown, 228
Heel ball, building, 211 et seq.
Heel ball, stuff, 138
Hoist, 165
Hoist, amount of, 165
Holdfast, 155
Holdfast, width, 155
INNERSOLE, drying, 147
Innersole, preparation, 142 et seq.
Innersole, proportions, 150
Innersole, rounding, 148
Insoles, feathering, 151
Insoles, length of stitch, 156
Knifing waists, 220
KNIFING, 219
LAST, positioning on, 164
Last, removing, 229
Lasting, 159 et seg., 174
Lasting, its object, 159
Leather shanks, 194
Length of stitch for insole, 156
Lifts, split, 133
Making a stitching thread, 181, 205
Making a welt thread, 181
Mellowing, 129
Moulding soles, 200
Object of channeling, 202
Object of lasting, 159
Object of stiffener, 133
Operation of drafting, 163
Overcasting, 136
Overstraining, 161
Paste, glue, 140
Paste, rye, 140
Piercing, 155
Positioning on the last, 164
Preface, 127
Preparation of bottom stuff, 129 et seq
Preparation, insole, 142 et seg
Proportions of innersoles, 150
Pull, fifth, 171
Pull, first, 167
Pull, fourth, 171
Pull, light, 17
Pull, second, 169
Pull, seventh, 172
Pull, sixth, 171
Pull, third, 169
Pulls, 167
Pulls, direction of, 162
Quality of stiffener, 134
RANGE, 153
Rasping, 220
Removing the last, 229
Re-waxing, 184
Rounding innersoles, 143
Rounding, 197 et seg.
Rye past, 140
SAND-PAPERING, 223, 224
Scraping innersoles, 144
Scraping, 222
Sewing foreparts, 137
Sewing in Welt, 184 185
Sewing lifts, 213
Sewing waists, 137
Shape of side lining, 133
Shape, of stiffeners, 135
Shop kit, 129, 130
Side lining, 131, 132
Side lining, shape of, 133
Size of stiffener, 135
Skiving side linings 133
Skiving stiffeners, 135, 137
Skiving waists, 199
Sole piece, 211
Sole, fitting tire, 197 et seg.
Split lifts, 138
Staining, 224
Stiffeners, 133
Stiffeners, object of, 133
Stiffeners, quality of, 134
Stiffeners, shape of 135
Stiffeners, size of, 135
Stitching, 205 et seg., 207
Substance, between, 155
Substance, of edge, 197
Threads for welt sewing, 180
Threads, making stitching, 205
Threads, making welt, 181
Toe stiffener, purpose of, 136
Toe stiffener, shape of, 137
Toe stiffener, skiving, 137
Top piece iron, 226
Top piece, pieces, 139, 216
Trimming welt in waist, 192
Twisting, 183
WAISTS, sewing, 207
Wax, 182
Waxing, 182, 183
Welt, fitting the, 179
Welt, seam construction, 178 et seq
Welt, sewing in, 184
Welt, sewing in, threads for, 136
Welt,thread for sewing, 131
Welting awl, 185
Welting thread, 183
Width of feather, 182
Width of holdfast, 155