ATOCI: BOOT MAKING AND MENDING (HASLUCK) [BMMH]

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. Repairing Heels and Half-soling. 9
II. Patching Boots and Shoes. 32
III. Re-welting and Re-soling. 50
IV. Boot Making. 62
V. Lasting the Upper. 75
VI. Sewing and Stitching. 84
VII. Making the Heel. 99
VIII. —Knifing and Finishing. 120
IX. Making Riveted Boots and Shoes. 148


INDEX

Awl, Heel, 104
Awl, Home-made, for Heeling, 12,13
Awl, for Pegging on Sole, 110
Awl, Sewing, 57
Awl, square or Stitching, 57, 94
Awl, Straight, Fine, 110
Beater, Corner, 122
Beater, for Driving Rivets, 152
Beater, Welt, 122
Beginners, Suitable Work for 16
Bench, Shoemakers', 18
Bevelled Appearance of Boot Soles, 131
Black Finish for Bottoms and Tops pieces, 139
Blacking Stitches, 36
Blind Welts, 95
Blinders, Use of, 113
Blinding on Top Piece, 115
Blind-stabbing, 40-43
Blind-stabbing, Makeshift, 44
Blocking Insoles, 72
Boot, Position of, when Re-welting. 54-56
Boot, Position of, for Ironing, 137
Boot, Position of, for Pricking up the Stitch, 136
Boot, Position of, for Stitching on the Sole, 57
Boots, Calf, Cleaning, 147
Boots, Falling to Pieces, 23
Boots, Hand-made: how they are put together, 58
Boots, Machine- and Hand-sewn, 19
Boots, Riveted, Making, 148, 153
Boots, Standard Screw, to distinguish, 19
Bottoms, Buff, 140
Bottoms, Damped-down, 140
Bottoms, Fillings for, 52
Bottoms, Finishing, 139
Bottoms, White, 141
Brad, French, 13
Bradding Heel-pieces, 14
Breasting the Heels, 129
Bristles for Ends of Threads, 61
Buffing-Knife, 28, 126
Buffing Knife, Sharpening, 126
Bunion Pieces, Pegging on to Lasts, 67
Burnisher, Double-handed, 140, 143
Burnishing Ink, 155
Calf Boots, Cleaning, 147
Casting Model of Foot in Plaster, 69
Cement for fastening Gutta-percha Sole, 30
Chair for Shoemakers, 18
Channel, Rubbing down, 58
Channelling the Sole, 91
Cleaning Calf Boots, 147
Closing in a Patch, 32
Cloth for cleaning off Heel-ball, 139
Colouring the Soles, 136
Corners, Knocking down, 122
Corns and Bunions, Allowing for in Fitting Lasts, 68
Cost of Grintery, 9
Creaking, To Prevent, 89
Crease Iron, 142
Cut Bill, 14
Draft Tacks, 77
Drawing Stitches Tight, 61
Fake, Making, 156
Fake, Using, 156
Faults in Heel-making, 116, 117
Feather, Tapping Down, 147
Felt for Bottom Fillings, 52
Fittings for Lasts, 66
Flax for Stitching and Sewing, 60, 84
Flexura Spring, 111
Flexura Waist, 143
Fudge-wheel, 59, 135
Glazer, Double handed, 140, 143
Glazing Ball, White, 142
Glazing Iron, 29, 134
Glue, Le Page's Fish, 68
Graft, Sewn, 53
Grafting Welts, 54, 55
Grindery, Cost of, 9
Guard for Knife when Trimming, 106
Gum-dragon for Finishing Waists, 142
Gutta-Percha, How to Buy, 9
Gutta-Percha, Increasing wear-resisting Qualities of, 31
Gutta-Percha, Soles, 29, 30
Half-heeling, 10, 11, 14
Half-tips, Leather-plugged, 15
Hammering the Upper, 81
Hammering Leather, 72
Hand-leather, 61
Hand-sewn Boots, To distinguish from Machine-sewn, 19
Hand-sewn Boots, how they are put together, 58
Heel Awl, 101
Heel Making, 99-119
Heel-ball, Black, 155
Heel-ball, Cleaning of, 139
Heel-ball, Use of, 138
Heel-ball, White, 142, 155
Heel-shave, 123
Heels, Bradding, 14
Heels, Breasting, 129
Heels, Buffing, 126
Heels, Completing, 114
Heels, Dressing, 106
Heels, Faults in, 116, 117
Heels, Fixing with Screws, 16
Heels, Horsing the Back of, 76
Heels, Importance of Keeping Level 9,11
Heels, Military, 118
Heels, Peening, 106, 123
Heels, Pitch of, 101
Heels, Range and Pitch of, 117,
Heels, Sand-papering, 1.27
Heels, Sewing down, 104, 105
Heels, Shape of, 118
Holing Inner Sole, 73
Hook, Last, 144
Horsing the lack of Heel, 76
Ink, Burnishing, 155
Inking the Soles, 136
Inner Sole, Holing, 73
Insoles, Blocking, 72
Instep Leather, 67
Invisible Patches, 37-40
Iron, Crease, 142
Iron, Double, 132
Iron, Forepart, 133
Iron, Lap, 20
Iron, Waist, 132
Ironing, 131, 137, 138, 153
Irons, 20, 130-134, 142
Irons, Heating, 137
Joint Leather, 67
Knife for Breasting Heels, 129
Knife, Buffing, 126
Knife, Buffing, Sharpening, 126
Knife, Welt, 128
Knifing-up the Seat, 130
Knifing-up the Sole, 89, 90, 120
Knifing-up Waist, 122
Lamp, Spirit, for Heating Irons, 137
Lap Iron, 20
Last Fitting, Preparatory to Resoling, 50
Last, Hook, 144
Last, Shape of 25, 65
Last, Taking out of Boots, 144
Lasting Light Leather Tops, 154
Lasting, Principles of, 75
Lasting, Riveted Boots and Shoes, 149
Lasting, Stout Leather, 78
Lasting, Tack, 76
Lasting, the Toe, 79, 80, 153
Lasting, the Top, 108
Lasting, Fitting up to Measure, 64
Lasting, to Shape of Foot, 68
Lasting, Fittings for, 66
Lasting, German made, 65
Lasting, Iron, Filling up, 68
Lasting, Measuring for, 23, 62-64
Lasting, for Riveted Boots, 69
Leather for Awl Handle, 13
Leather, for Boot Bottoms, 70
Leather, Hand, Making, 61
Leather, Joint, 67
Leather, Quality of, 69
Leather, Worked "and Unworked," 10
Leather, Wrinkles and Pipes in, 78, 153
Levelling up for Re-soling, 25
Levelling up the Welt, 128
Lifts, Cutting away, 129
Lifts, Split, for Heels, Making, 99
Lifts, Split, Pegging on, 108
Lifts, Split, Putting on the Heels, 101,
Lifts, Split, for Riveted Boots, 153
Long Leather, 67
Loop-stitching, 46
Machine - sewn and Hand - sewn Boots, Distinguishing between, 19
Machine - sewn Boots and Shoes, Re-soling, 21
Materials for Soling and Heeling, 9
Measuring for Lasts, 23, 62-64
Paring Soles, 26, 27, 55, 90, 91
Paste for Shoemakers, 1.8 -
Pasting Socks, 14.6
Patch, Closing in, 32
Patches, Cutting to Size, 37
Patches, Difference between Closed and Invisible, 38
Patches, Invisible, 37-40
Patching, 32-49
Pattern of Half-heel Piece, Cutting, 12
Peening the Heel, 10G, 123
Peening the Sole, 28, 193
Peg-Knife, 145
Peg-knife Rasp, 145
Pegged Seat, Making, 107
Pegged Waist, Fitting Inner Sole for, 112
Pegged Work, Lasts for, 69
Pegging on Sole and Solepiece, 110
Pegging on Split-lift, 108
Pincers, 80
Pipes in Leather, Removing, 78, 154
Plaster Cast of Foot, Making, 69
Position of Boot for Pricking up the Stitch, 136
Position of Boot when Re-welting, 51, 56
Position of Boot when Stitching o Sole, 57, 58
Prick-stitch, Use of, 73
Protectors, Boot, Use of, 31
Rasp for Smoothing, 124, 125
Rasping, 124
Re-welting and Re-soling Hand-sewn Boots, 50
Rivet Driver, 152
Riveted Boots, Lasts for, 69, 148
Rivited Boots, Making, 148, 153
Rivets, Iron and Brass, 27
Rivits, their Positions on the Sole, 26
Rivits, for Soling, 23
Rivits, their Use in Half-heeling, 11, 15
Roughues on Insides, Removing, 115
Rounding the Sole, 89, 90
Rubbing down Channel, when Resoling, 58
Rubbing down Stitches, 36
Runner for Pegged Work, 113
Runner for Riveted Work, 150
Runner or Welt, 21
Sand-papering, 127
Sands' Solution, 37
Scraper, 28
Screws for Fixing Heels, 17
Seat, Making up, 130
Seat, Stitching, 47
Seat, Trimming, 106
Seat-breaker, 107
Seat-Socks, 145
Seat-wheel, 130
Seatpiece, Leather for, 98
Set-off Stuff, Cost of, 70
Set-off Stuff, Preparing for Use, 71
Sewing, 34, 36
Sewing, Awl, 57
Sewing, down the Heel, 104, 105
Sewing, in the Seat, 87, 88
Sewing, -, Technical Meaning of, 57
Sewing, Thread for, GO
Sewing, Tightening Stitches in, 61
Sewing, Upper to Inner Sole, 109
Sewing, Welts, 51, 54
Sewn Graft, 53
Shank, 53
Sharpening Buffing-Knife, 126
Sharpening, Strop, 17
Side Linings, 74
Side Pin, 76
Size, Shoemakers', 155
Skiving, 37, 45
Smoothing Insides of Boots, 145
Snow's Leather-plugged Half-tips, 15
Socks for Ladies' Boots and Shoes,
Socks, putting, into Boots, 146
Socks, for Riveted Boots, 152
Sole, channelling, 91
Sole, Colouring 136
Sole, Dividing, 72
Sole, Fitting in Riveted Boots, 150
Sole, Inking, 136
Sole, Inner, Holing, 73
Sole, Paring, 26, 27, 55, 90, 91
Sole, Peening, 28, 113
Sole, Riveted, 151
Sole, Rounding or Knifing-up, 89, 90
Sole, Rubbing clown, 97
Sole, Stitching on, 56
Sole-plane, 125
Soles, Bevelled Appearance of, 134
Soles, Gutta-percha, 29, 30
Soles, Inferior, Using, 150
Soles, Old, Taking off, 21
Solution, Sands', 37
Solution, Warman's, 37, 39
Solvent for "Invisible" Patches, 37
Spring, Flexura•, 111
Springs, 70
Split-lifts for Heels, Making, 99
Split-lifts, Pegging on, 108
Split-lifts, Putting on the Heels, 101, 102
Split-lifts, for Riveted Boots, 150
Spring Waists, Finishing, 142 Squares, 70
Standard Screw Boots, To Distinguish, 19
Stands for Lasts, 23
Stiffeners, 74
Stitch, Drawing, 48
Stitches, Blacking, 36
Stitches, Mode of Setting in .Re=soling,
Stitches, Rubbing Down, >6
Stitches, Yellow, on Welt, 93
Stitching, 34, 36, 95, 93
Stitching, Awl, 57, 94
Stitching, Hemp and Flax for, 60, 84
Stitching, Loop, 46
Stitching, Seat, 47
Stitching, on Soles, 56, 59
Stitching, Technical Meaning of, 57
Stitching, Thread for, 60, 84
Stripe Waist, 141
Strop, Sharpening, 17
Tacking the Inner Sole, 149
Tacks, Draft, 177
Tacks, for Lasting, 76
Tapping Down the Feather, 147
Thread, 34, 36, 60
Thread, Breaking, 60
Thread, for Sewing Welts, 84
Thread, Smoothing, 60
Thread, waxing, 60, 87
Tingles for Riveted Work, 1494
Tips, Half, Leather-plugged, 15
Toe, Lasting, 79, 80, 153
Toe-cap, Loose, to Sew on, Toe Piecing, 46
Toe Pin, 66
Tools for Repairing, 18, 31
Top-pieces, Finishing, 142
Top-pieces, Blinding on, 115
Trimming the Seat, 106
Under-sole, Fixing, 22
Underlaying, 16, 44, 46,
Uppers, Cracks in, 35 Hammering, 81_
Various Killds of, 69
Waist-iron, 130, 131
Waists, Pegged, 113
Waists, Creasing, 143
Waists, Fiddle, 140, 141
Waists, Finishing, 140, 142
Waists, Flexura, 143
Waists, Lining, 143
Waists, Marking off, 136, 113
Waists, Polishing, 142
Waists, Spring, Finishing, 142
Waists, Square, 89, 132
Waists, Stripe, 141, 142
Warman's Solution, 37, 39
Wax, Shoemakers', 156 Wax-end, 34
Waxing Threads, 60, 87
Wear, One-sided, Allowing for, 151
Welt-Beater, 122
Welt Knife, 128
Welts, 21, 70
Welts, Blind, 95, 136
Welts, Cost of, 51
Welts, for Dress Shoes, 83
Welts, Levelling, 128
Welts, Machine-sewn, 19
Welts, Preparing for Use, 51, 82
Welts, of Riveted, Pegged and Machines sewn Boots, 153
Welts, Rounding Edges of, 52
Welts, Sewing, 51, 54, 83-87
Width of, 83
Wing, New, 35
Wrinkles and Pipes in Leather, 78, 153
Yellow Stitches on Welt, 93