Index to: The Shoe Industry. Acid-tanned, 300 Adjustment, 300 Anatomic, 300 Antinoe, city of 26 Apprentice, in last century, 28 Arch, 300 Assembling 300; Assembling department, 153 Assembling positions, 154 Astringent acids, 89, 09 Automatic machine, 177, 275 Backstay, 300 Back strap, 300 Bal, 300 Ball, 301 Barring machine, 177 Beading 301 Beard, Thomas, 27 Beating out, 301 Bellows tongue, 301 Belting, 301 Bench-made, 301 Bend 301 "Binding" 34, 58 Blackball, 301 Blacking the edge, 301 Blake, Lyman It., 58, 124 Blind nailing, 221 Blind eyelet, 301 Blocking, 302 Blucher, 164, 302 Boot, 302 Boots and shoes, value of products for leading states, 1909 and 1890, 47 Boston Continuation School, 269-271 Boston School Committee, 269, 270 Bottom filling, 302 Bottom finishing, 302 Bottom scouring, 302 Bottom stock fitting, 188 Box, 302 Box calf, 97 Box factory 113 Box toe department, 113 Breed, Ebenezer, and the shoe tariff, 36, 39, 90 Brockton, 45, 46 Brogan, 302 Broken arch, 302 Brushing, 302 Buckram, 303 Buckskin, 93 Buffing, 303 Business departments of shoe manufacture, 109; Business departments of shoe manufacture, the usual officers, 109; Business departments of shoe manufacture, chart of, 111 "Business Employments," the volume upon, 109 Business organization, 43 Button, 303 Button fly, 303 Buttonhole department, 173; Buttonhole positions, 172 Cabaretta, 303 Calfskin, 97, 303; Calfshin, special terms, 97, 98 Calking machine, 303 Canvas reinforcement, 191 Carton, 303 Case, 304 Census, first United States, 35 Census, as of 1909, 44 Census statistics Boots and shoes, value for leading states, 47 Census, table I, general statistics, 48 Census, table II, boot and shoe cut stock, 49; Census, table III findings, 50; Census, table IY, exports of boots and shoes, 51 Census, leather, value for leading states, 103 Census, table V, imports of hides and skins 104, 105 Census, table VI, number of boots, shoes, and slippers made by each method of manufacture, 132 Census, table VII, average wages per hour, weekly earning, and hours per week, by years, cutting department, 156, 157 Census, table VIII, average wages per hour, weekly earnings, and hours per week, by states, cutting department, 158, 159 Census, table IX, wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by years, fitting department, 178-181 Census, table X, wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by states, fitting department, 182, 183 Census, table XI, wages, weekly earnings and horns, by years, sole leather department, 197 Census, table XII, wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by states, sole leather department 198 Census, table XIII wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by years, lasting department, 230-232 Census, table XIV, wages weekly earnings, and hours, by states, lasting department, 234-235 Census, table XV, wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by years, bottoming department, 236-239 Census, table XVI, wages weekly earnings, and hours, by states, bottoming department, 240-243 Census, table XVII, wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by years, finishing department, 254 Census, table XVIII wages, weekly earnings, and hours, by states, finishing department, and other employees in all departments, 255, 257 Census, table XIX, hours, wages, weekly earnings, and employees, in the principal occupations in 1914, 286 287 Census, variations in number of employees, payrolls and earnings, 288 Census, table XX, sex and age distribution by leading industries, 1909, 290, 201 Central administrative offices, 116 Chamois, 97 Channel1 304 Channeling 190 Channel laying, 210 Channel screwed, 304 Channel stitched, 304 Channel turning, 304 Chemist, 295 Chrome-tanned, 90, 100, 304 Cities, leading, 44, 45 Clicking, 304; Clicking machine, 148; Clicking machine illustration, 149 Closing on, 304 Closing and staying department, 169; Closing positions, 170 Cobbler, 27, 34, 292 Collar 304 Colonial, 304 Colonial times, 32 Coltskin, 99 Combination last, 304 Congress gaiter, 305 Copper toe, 305 Cordova, 26 Cordwainers' Company, London, 26 Counter, 138, 305; Counter department, 193 Counting, marking, and skiving department, 152 Cravenette, 305 Creasing vamp, 305 Crimping, 305 Cripple girls 169 Cross section, of a Goodyear welt shoe, 125; Cross section, of a McKay sewed, 126; Cross section, of a standard screwed, 127; Cross section, of a pegged, 128 Cushion sole, 305 Custom-made, 305 Cutter, 36, 145-148, 191, 195 Cutting room, 145 Cut-off vamp, 305 Cut-sole industry, 101, 102 Day sheet, 138, 141; typical, 140 Dagyr, John Adam, 28 Designer, pattern, 79, 80, 83; Designer assistant, 83 Destouy, Auguste, 59, 124 Detail in hoe manufacture, 135; Detail number of processes, 135 136 Dickerson, Philemon, 90 Dieing, 305 Dieing out straps, 153 Dinking machine, 144 Dom Pedro, 305 Dressing, 305 Dry hides, 99 Edge setting, 305 Edge setting machine, 210 Edge trimming, 306 Efficiency engineer, 274 Efficiency methods, 274 Embossing, 250, 306 Employment conditions and supplementary material, 261-295 Employment department, 109; Employment manager, 109 Employees, six division of, 261; Employees, processes given to male, 262; Employees, divisions among departments, 262; Employees, records, 265; Employees, average earnings of, 285 Employees, chart of variations in number, 288 Enamel leather, 96 European war, 92 Executive officers, 109, 110 Eyelet, 306 Fabrics, 92 Facing, 306 Factory departments of shoe manufacture, 112 Factory, chart of, 114 Factory, additional, 247, 248 Factory hours, 42 Factory management, chart of, 115 Factory management, offices, 110, 116 Factory manager, 80 Factory service and office service, 112 Fair stitch, 306 Filler, 306 Findings, 306 Finish2 306 Finishing department, 112 Finishing, treeing, packing, and shipping, 247-257 Fitting, 306; Fitting department, 113; Fitting room, 307 Foreman, 145, 154, 189, 272, 273; Foreman assistant, 273 Forewomen, 166, 168, 173, 174; Form, 25 307 Foxing, 307; Foxing, department, 170; Foxing, positions, 171 French size marking, 307 Gaiter, 307 "Gangs," 40 Gem insoles, 307 General manager, 109 General offices, 110 GGII shoe, 307 Goodyear, Charles, 59 Goodyear welt machine, 59; Goodyear channeling machine, 190; Goodyear stitching machine, illustration, 219 Goodyear welt shoe, 124, 125; Goodyear welt 307 Gore, 307 Grading, 307 Grading machine, 82 Green hides, 99 Gun metal, 98 Hand cutter, 145-148 Hand processes, 275 Half sole, 307 Heel, 307 Heel department, 113, 194 Heel, processes, 194 Heel, positions in department, 195 Heel breasting machine, 221 Heeling department, 221 Heeling positions, 222 Heeling machine, 227 Heel seat, 308; nailing, 209, 217 Heel s~ouring, 30S; machine, 221; shaving, 308 Heel trimming, 221 Heels fastened by pegs, 56 Hemlock tanned, 89, 99-101, 308 Hides and skins, tannery division of, 93 Indenture paper, 28 Industrial education, quotation from a report, 267 Ingalls, Francis, 90 Inaeam trimming, 398 Insole, 187, 309 Inspecting, 251, 309 Inspector, 143, 166, 168, 173 Instruction of operators, 64 Ironing, 250, 309 Journeyman, 34 Joyce Joseph L., 61 Junk-board, 81 Kertland, Philip, 27 Kid, 96; varieties, 96, 97 Labor, distinction between capital and, 39 Labor, division olin the factory, 40 Labor, securing sidiled, 265 Labor statistics1 U. S. Bureau of, 154, 284 Lace, 309; shoes, 129; stay, 309 Lapstone, 57, 309 Last, 309 Last, 36, 71, 309 Last, shaping of, 71 Last, materia1~ 72 Last, lathe, 73 Last, model, 74 Last, devices for reducing, 75; Last, Arnold hinged~ 75 Last, storage, 75 Last, worker, 76 Last, standardization, 82 Lasting, 309 Lasting, department, 202 Lasting, positions, 205 Lasting, machine, illustration, 207 Lasting, Last-making, 71-76 Lasting, hand, 72 Lasting, modern, 73 Lasting, machine, or lathe, 73, 74 Lasters, hand, 60 Leading industries, 289-292 Leasing system, 63, 67 Leather, its nature, 89 Leather, tanning, 89 Leather, American manufacturing, 90 Leather, increasing shortage of, 91 92 Leather, substitutes, 92, 101 Leather, hideite, 93 Leather, a side of, 94, 95 Leather, disions of in shoe factories, 94 Leather, varieties of upper, 94 Leather, sole, 99 Leather, oak, hemlock, union 99-101 Leather, tanned, curried, and finished, value for leading states, 102 Leatherboard, 92 Leather sorter, 142 Leveling, 210, 309 Libraries, 277 Lift, 309 Lining, 309 Lining, department, 164 Lining, positions, 166 Lining arid cloth-cutting section, 144 Lining, positions, 145 Lining, sorter, 143 Linings, 135, 153, 164, 166, 172, 218 Low-cut, 309 Lynn, first home of the industry, 44, 46 Machine, upper-stitching, 56 Machine, sole-sewing 56 Machine, McKay, 41, 57, 58 Machine, welting, 56 Machine, pegging, 57 Machine, roiling, 57 Machine, Howe sewing, 58 Machine, Goodyear welt 59 Machine, edge- trimming and heel-trimming 59 Machine, lasting, 60 Machine, operating, 63 Machinery, introduction, 43, 60; Machinery, invention of shoe, 55 Machinery, development, 56 Machinery, care of, 64 Machinery, standardization, 67 Machinery, in tanning, 91 McKay bottoming department, 217 McKay, processes, 217 McKay, positions, 218 McKay, Gordon, 5S~ 59, 63, 124 McKay insole department, 188; positions, 189 McKay sewed, 30~ illustration, 126 Making department, 112, 113, 201-243 Making department, divisions, 201 Making department, work in, 229 Massachusetts State Board of Health 280 Mathies, Robert, 58 Matzeliger, Jan Ernest, 60 Measurement, 310 Measuring upper leather, 141 Mechanics, 64 Medical attendance, 277, 279 Methods in shoe manufacture, 123-432 Methods, percent. of each in total production, 129, 130 Middle Ages, 25 Moccasin of the American Indian, 27 Model grader, 83 Modern shoe factory, 113-119 Monotony of shoemaking, 275 Moulding 310 National Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Association, 267, 271 National Society for the Promotion of Industrial Education, 269, 271 Naumkeag buffing machine, 213 Naunkeaging, 310 New England Shoe and Leather Association 269 New England shoe and leather production, 45, 46 Nichols, John Brooks, 58 Nicking, 153 North Shore district, 45 Novelties, 91 Oak-tanned, 89, 99-101 Office manager, 109 Ooze, 98 Operations, machine, 55 Operations, hand, 55 Outer sole department, 192 Outer sole positions, 192 Oxford, 164, 310 Packing, 112 Packing, department, 251 Packing, positions, 252 Pasted counter, 310 Patent leather 96, 248, 249 Patent office, United States, 55 Patents on shoe machinery, 55 Pattern, 79 Pattern, designer, 79 Pattern, sample, 80 Pattern, model, 80 Pattern, number to a shoe, 81 Pattern, material, 81 Pattern, making, 82 Pattern, standardization, 82 Pattern, storage, 83 Pattern, price, 83. Pattern-maker SO, 81, 83 Pattern-making, 79 Pattern-making, department, 80 Pattern-making, machine, 83 Pattern-making, positions, 83 Peg, wooden, 56 Peg,; machine-made, 57 Pegging, 319 Pennsylvania, 32, 33 Perforating 187, 310 Piece and time payment, 283 Polish shoe, 164, 310 Porter, William, and Sons, 58 Power grader, 83 Power machine, 177 President, 109 Pressing, 310 Printing department, 113 Processes number of in making an ordinary shoe, 55 Processes, best paying, 283 Promotion, 265 Pulling lasts, 310 Pulling over, 311 Pulling over machine, 61, 202 Pulling over machine, illustration, 203 Pump, 166 311 Putnam, Generai, 35 Quality man, 191, 273 Quantity man, 191, 273 Quarter, 172, 311 Rand, 311 Randing, 190 Rebellion, War of the, 91 Receipt of an order, 136 Reinforced insole, 190 Relasting, 311 Relief fund, 279 Repair shop earnings 295 Repairing, 311 Repairing industry, 292 Revolution1 the, 35 Rickernian, Isaac, 27 "Roadmen," 84 Rolling, 311 Romans the, 25 Rose, William 90 Rough rounding, 206, 311 Rough machine, illustration, 215 Rounding machine, 187, 188 Royalties, 311 Royalty stamps, facsilime of early, 65 Rubber, 93 Rubber cement, 311 Rubber shoes, 311 Russia calfskin, 98 Sales manager, 80 Salesman, traveling, 79 Salesman, sample, 312 Sandal, 25, 312 Sandal, ancient Egyptian makers, 25, 26 Sanitary conditions, 280-28a Schools and courses for shoemaking, 266-271 Screw fastened, 312 Seasons, 263, 289 Sex and age distribution of wageearners, 289 Shank, 312 Shank, development, 62 Shank, burnishing, 312 Shanking out, 312 Sheepskin, 99 Shipping, 112 Shipping, ; department, 252 Shipping, ; positions 253 Shoe factories, first, 39 Shoe factory, entering, 264 Shoe foreman, 272, 273 Shoe foreman assistant, 273 Shoe and Leather Association, New England, 45 Shoe industry, magnitude of the, today, 44 Shoe industry, capital invested, 1909, 44 Shoe industry, number of employees, 1909 and now, 44 Shoe laws, ancient, 33 Shoe manufacture, department of, 109 Shoe manufacture, power in, 61 Shoe manufacture, highly specialized, 263 Shoe manufacture, report upon industrial education in, 267 Shoe repairing industry, 292-295 Shoe superintendent, 109, 166, 168, 271 Shoe superintendent, ; assistant, 273 Shoe tag, 136, 138 Shoe tag typical, 139 Shoe tariff, 36 Shoemaker, 25, 43 Shoemaker, itinerant, 33 Shoemakers first American, 27 Shoemakers, New England, 35 Shoemakers, Dutch, 35; Shoemakers attitude of early towards the shoe factory, 42 Shoemaking, American, 28 Shoemaking, era of machine, 58 Shoemaking a trade, 264 Shoemaking, monotony of, 275 Shoemaking, offsets to monotony, 275 Shoemaking, efforts to lessen monotony, 276 Shoe shop of a century ago, 35 Shoe shop, old time beside a modem factory, 37 Shoe shops, first, 34 Shoes, ancient and medieval, 25, 26 Shoes, English-made, 36 Shoes, value of in Colonial times, 32 Size, 312 Skin showing how patterns are placed in cutting, 147 Skiving, 152, 312; Skiving, positions in, 153 Slashing, 190 Slipper, $13 Slugging, 221, 313 Sneaker 313 Social clubs, 277 Social service, 109, 277-280; Social service, quotations from a government study, 277 Sock lining, 313 Suede leather, 96 Soft tips, 313 Sole laying, 206, 313; leveling, 210 sewing, 209 Sole feather department, 112, 116, 187-198; employees, 196 Sole leveling machine, 210; illustration, 223 Soles, 187 Sorter, 142, 143 Sorting, 310 Sorting department, positions, Spanish War, 91 Specialists, 43 Speed, 275 Split, 93, 313 Spring1 313 Stamping, 313; machine, 153 Stages in Goodyear welt manufacture, 130; illustration, 131 Standard screw, pegged and nailed departments, 226 Statics (see Census) States, leading, 44, 45, 47 Stay 313 Stitch separating, 313 Stitched aloft, 313 Stitching department, 112, 113, 116, 163-183 Stitching, processes, 163 Stitching, number of parts, 164 Stitching, divisions, 164 Stitching, chart, 165 Stitching machine, operating, 176 Stock keeping, 314 Stock fitting, 42 Stripping, 314 Style, 314 Subsidiary factories, 102 System, factory, 39 System, quotation on contract, 41 System, organization, 43, 63, 67 Tan, 314 Tanners, American, 91 Tanning, S9-91, 99-10!, 173, 314 Tap, 314 Teacher, 173 Teams, 40 Tempering 314 Terms used in shoemaking 299-316 Teutonic tribes, 25 Thebes, 25 Time and pay statistics in the cutting department, 154 Tip, 314 Tip, department, 164, 166 Tip, positions, 168 Tip, repairing department, 248 Toe box department, 193 Toeboxes, 187 Toe closing department, 184; 175 Toe closing department, positions, 176 Toe and heel wiping, 202 Tongue, 314 Top 314 Top, facing, 314 Top, lift, 314 Top, stitching, 314 Top, stitcher, 172, 173 Top stitching department, 172; positions, 173 Training classes, 277 Treasurer, 109 Treeing, 112~ 315; department, 249; positions, 251 Trimming cutting, 315 Trimmings, 135 153, 164 Trowbridge, William F., 61 Turned shoe, 129, 315 Turned shoe, department, 222 Turned shoe, lasting, 222 Turned shoe, positions, 223 Turnover 315 United Shoe Machinery Company, 28 Upper, 315 Upholstering, 91 Upper leather department, 112, 116, 135-159 Upper leather department, chart of, 187 Upper leather room, 141 Upper trimming machine, 205 Vamp, 175, 315 Vampers, 173 Vamping, 164 Vamping, department, 175; positions, 175 Viscolizing, 315 Vice-president, 109 Wages and variation in employment, 2S4 Welfare manager, 109 Welt, 315 Welt, beating, 206, 315 Welt, finishing, 210 Welt, bottoming department, 205 Welt, positions, 213 Welt, insole department, 189 Welt, positions, 191 Welting, 316 Wetting, 190 Wheeling, 316 Width, 316 Willow calf, 98 Woolthedge, John, 58